1. The main water shut off valve.
2. The main electrical disconnect or breaker.
3. The main emergency shut off switch for the heating system.
4. Main gas line shut off valve.
5. Your local emergency numbers.

	PERIODICALLY	SPRING	FALL	ANNUALLY
Check basement/crawl cellar for dampness and leakage after wet weather.
Check foundation walls, steps, retaining walls, patios, driveways,garage floors, etc., for cracks, heaving, crumbling.
Check chimneys, deteriorated chimney caps, loose and missing mortar.
Maintain grading sloped away from foundation walls.

• Install concrete floors in crawl spaces and insulate area.

• Weatherstrip exterior doors and all windows in area.

• When you add rooms in an unfinished basement, insulate outer walls.

• Insulate between joist spaces on the exterior walls.

• Floor joists should be watched for pest infestation.

• Seal all holes and cracks observed.

• Periodically check and clean window wells.

• Check and clean floor drains, sump discharge lines, sump pits and sump pump.

• Check and correct any shims under beams or joists.

• Keep lawn sprinklers far enough from the outside walls of the house so they do not spray against the foundation walls.

• To prevent condensation, consider insulating inner walls and wrapping plumbing pipes in insulation.

• Check for signs of dampness. Some common causes are: defective downspouts or gutters; carelessly placed lawn sprinklers; poor sloping of the ground around building; a clogged or broken drain or leaking water line; a high water table in the ground beneath the house could also pose a problem.

• A damp, musty smell in the basement area.

• Condensation forming around piping in the basement.

• Soft, discolored baseboard wood near floor level could be an indication of water penetration.

• Loose or bulging areas in the lath and plaster surfaces.

To prevent roof leaks, condensation, seepage and decay problems:

	PERIODICALLY	SPRING	FALL	ANNUALLY
Check for damaged, loose or missing shingles, blisters.
Check for leaking, misaligned or damaged gutters, downspouts (leaders), hangers (straps), gutter guards and strainers.
Clean gutters, leaders, strainers, window wells, drains. Be sure downspouts direct water away from foundation.
Cut back tree limbs growing on or over roof.
Check antenna supports for sturdiness and possible source leakage.
Check flashings around roof stacks, vents, skylights, chimneys, as sources of leakage.
Check vents, louvers and chimneys for birds nests, squirrels, insects.
Check fascias and soffits for paint flaking, leakage and decay.

• Install adequate insulation in attic areas.

• Weatherstrip and caulk around windows and vent openings.

• Make sure attic ventilation is adequate so as to reduce heat build up, condensation and moisture.

• Make sure that entrance hatch leading up to the attic has insulation covering it.

• Annually check inner flashings around chimney to make sure they are secure.

• Check chimney every 1-2 years for loose tile, loose brick, excessive soot build up, etc.

• Install attic fans or louvers where feasible.

• Make sure attic exhaust fan is operating properly.

• Check periodically to make sure that attic sheathing and rafters are visibly in sound structural condition.

• Look annually for damage spots on inner roof surface.

• Keep attic vents open year round.

• Excessive moisture in attic area, i.e.. mold, mildew, staining.

• Damp or spotted ceilings just under attic flooring.

• Spots or stains on interior chimney.

• Split or cracked sheathing or rafters.

• Flooring should be placed over rafters whenever possible.

• If during cold weather you find frost on the underside of the roof sheathing or protruding nails, this is a sign of inadequate ventilation.

• Never allow debris or items stored in the attic to touch wiring.

• If you notice any sag in the rafters, consult immediately with a contractor or carpenter as to the cost and feasibility of bracing them.

To prevent paint failure, decay and moisture penetration problems:

	PERIODICALLY	SPRING	FALL	ANNUALLY
Check basement/crawl cellar for dampness and leakage after wet weather.
Check foundation walls, steps, retaining walls, patios, driveways,garage floors, etc., for cracks, heaving, crumbling.
Check chimneys, deteriorated chimney caps, loose and missing mortar.
Maintain grading sloped away from foundation walls.

• Install storm windows and doors where necessary.

• Install needed insulation wherever feasible.

• Weatherstrip all exterior doors and windows.

• When replacing a roof surface, install a lighter color roof – the light colored shingles often give greater reflection and will reduce hear buildup.

• In crawl spaces, install concrete floors and insulate areas.

• Make sure to caulk and maintain all joints, seams and cracks.

• Trim bushes, vines, trees, in areas of the gutters, wood trim, roof, etc...

• Make sure all doors and windows are weatherstripped, glazed, and proper fit.

• Clean and check out window wells periodically.

• Check and seal all exterior holes and cracks. Re-point any damaged mortar joints.

• Check roof surfaces for potential problems at least once every (12) to (18) months. Where roof surface is (14) years of age or older make sure to check roof surface every 6 to 12 months so as to catch early problems.

• Annually check roof flashings on exterior to make sure they are tightly secured, and not leaking or deteriorating.

• Have gutters and leaders cleaned and serviced annually.

• Paint metal roof surfaces periodically so as to extend the life of the metal.

• Check wood members near the ground for pest infestation (i.e.: wooden decks, porches, railings, stairways, etc...).

• Keep areas around bulkhead weatherstripped.

• Test for gutter leakage by spraying a stream of water on the roof and watching the runoff.

• Confirm proper pitch of gutters for drainage.

• Vertical cracking in foundation and basement walls that run for more than a few courses.

• Water stains around vent pipes, roof events, or on exterior chimney.

• Missing, cracked, curled or loose shingles observed on roof surface.

• Gutters (wood) that are split at seams.

• Painted wood siding may show some evidence of moisture problems or weathering.

• Make sure downspouts push water away from the house... Use splash blocks and extensions.

• Blistering or peeling of painted surfaces may indicate excess condensation on the inside or water penetration from the outside.

• Improper drainage might cause water penetration through foundation walls.

To prevent air and weather penetration problems:

	PERIODICALLY	SPRING	FALL	ANNUALLY
Check caulking for decay around doors, windows, corner boards, joints, re-caulk as needed.
Check glazing putty around windows.
Check weatherstripping.

• Ensure weatherstripping is tight around entire doors and windows.
• Add weather tight threshold at the base of doors.

• Add a storm door on entry doors.

• Weather tight film over windows will stop air infiltration.

• Install storm windows as necessary.

• Make sure caulk is in good repair around all doors and windows.

• Replace thermal windows with broken seals.

• Keep hinges lubricated for ease of operation.

• Adjust door latches to ensure tight seal of door.

• Adjust height of floor weatherstripping to contact base of door.

• Keep weep holes open at the base of storm windows on the sill.

• Lubricate the side of sashes and storms for ease of operation.

• Adjust locks.

• Keep wood sashes and trim well painted to stop wood damage.

• Keep window ropes tight, secure.

• Keep wood doors well painted and sealed.

• Drafty windows and door.

• Water leakage around windows and door.

• Excessive condensation on window.

• Warped doors.

• Sticking window.

• Door dragging on frame and floor.

• Door latches that do not line up.

• Torn weatherstripping.

For safe electrical performance:

	PERIODICALLY	SPRING	FALL	ANNUALLY
Learn location of electrical panel box for breakers or fuses. Never overfuse.
Trip circuit breakers every six months and ground fault interrupters (G.F.I.), Monthly.
Mark and label each circuit.
Check condition of lamp cords, extension cords and plugs. Replace at first sign of wear and damage.
Check exposed wiring and cable for wear or damage.
If fuses blow or breakers trip frequently, have a licensed electrician determine cause.
If you experience slight tingling shock from handling or touching any appliance, disconnect the appliance & have it repaired. If lights flicker or dim, or if appliances go on and off unnecessarily, call a licensed electrician.

Energy Conservation Suggestions:

• Use non-amp fuses that fit into the correct size adapter.

• Keep all electrical appliances and lights turned off when not in use.

• Install outside timer to turn lights on at night and off the following day.

• Wash with warm and/or cold water rather than hot, whenever feasible.

• Label all fuses.

• Overfusing can be a potential fire hazard. Make sure fuse sizes are proper.

• Eliminate the use of extension cords wherever possible. Install added electrical outlet wherever needed.
• Use correct size bulbs in fixtures.

• Stock a variety of fuses in the sizes required for your home.

• Periodically check outside main service apparatus for deterioration.

• When needed, replace frayed or worn wiring.

• Never use a lightweight #16 lamp cord as an extension cord for a heavy power tool.

• Install smoke detectors... Especially outside every sleeping area.

• Periodically check service panel distribution center for signs of overheating.

• Install grounded outlets in areas that are subject to shock hazards.

• Install plugs in all knockouts missing in electrical boxes and panels.

• Uninsulated wires could be a safety hazard or even start a fire.

• An overheated service panel box.

• Rusted wiring of any kind.

• Missing cover plates on outlets or switches.

• Blown fuses and/or tripped circuit breakers.

• Main service cable deterioration.

• Lights flickering on and off.

• Open electrical junction boxes.

• Loose outlets.

For preventive maintenance:

	PERIODICALLY	SPRING	FALL	ANNUALLY
Check faucets, hose bibs and valves for leakage.
Drain exterior water lines, hose bibs, sprinklers, pool equipment in the fall.
Check for leaks at sink and house traps and sewer cleanouts.
Draw off sediment in water heaters monthly or per manufacturer's instructions.
Have septic tank cleaned every 2 years.

• Do not use toilets as garbage substitutes. Each time a toilet is flushed, it uses quite a bit of excess water.

• Showers, on the average, will use less water than tubs, consider a water saving device.

• Never put caustic products in a garbage disposal. Often the product can eat the bottom right out of the disposal.

• Check bathroom drains periodically to make sure that they are kept clear.

• Do not incorporate a garbage disposal with a septic system.

• Check shower stalls, water closets, sinks, and showers for drain leakage.

• If you must put grease down a drain, run the hot water for at least thirty seconds and add a small amount of baking soda with the water.

• Re-caulk shower stalls and tubs when necessary.

• If there is no window in the bathroom(s), there should be an exhaust fan, or at least a good vent, to carry away moist air and odors.

• Check to make sure that the tile on the shower walls and on the floor are tight and have a good water seal. Tap any suspect areas sharply with your fingers, especially around the fixtures and along the base of the shower wall.

• Check all plumbing fixtures under sinks, and lavatories periodically for potential leakage.

• Dripping or leaky faucets and valves can mean costly repairs to you.

• Discolored water found in the toilet tank.

• Bathroom plaster cracks or peeling wallpaper may be an indication of water leakage and/or too much humidity without enough ventilation.

• Slow drains may indicate possible obstruction problems.

• Insulate your hot water pipes.

• Have hot water set at 140 degrees Fahrenheit or less, depending on your needs.

• When replacing a hot water heater, shop for models that rate high in energy efficiency.

• Make necessary plumbing leak repairs immediately.

• Turn off hot and cold valves when not in use.

• Regulate the volume of water for shower use.

• Consider using maximum loads in your clothes washer and in your dishwasher.

• Install a water saving device in all showers.

• Clean and maintain humidifier equipment.

• Maintain and carefully service septic or cesspool system.

• Service should be maintained every one or two years as necessary.

• Periodically check for leaks at all fittings, joints and connections.

• Make sure to periodically check and maintain operation of sump pump equipment.

• On your hot water heater, every month or so, draw off a pail of water to cut back on the accumulation of sediment.

• At least twice a year, manually open safety valve(s) on top of hot water heater tank.

• With gas-fired hot water heaters, clean the burner of lint and dirt, and vacuum out the air passages to the burner.

• Periodically maintain water conditions.

• Check water pressure levels periodically.

• Turn off and drain any exterior plumbing at seasonal change.

• Check all water lines and holding tank for leaks/corrosion regarding hot water heating systems.

• Evidence of moisture or trails of corrosion in the hot water heater can indicate a leaking tank.

• Soot around the firebox door can indicate either faulty adjustment of the hot water heater flame or a possible venting problem.

• Check water pressure levels periodically.

• Decrease in water pressure or sudden drop of pressure.

• Air hammering of pipes.

For comfort, efficiency, energy conservation and safety:

	PERIODICALLY	SPRING	FALL	ANNUALLY
Change or clean furnace filters, air condition filters, electronic filters as needed.
Clean and service humidifier. Check periodically and annually.
Have oil burning equipment serviced annually.
Clean around heating and cooling equipment, removing leaves, dust, over grown shrubbery, debris. Be sure power is off!!
On steam systems, "blow off" or drain low water cutoff per manufacturer's instructions or instruction tag.

• Install proper ventilation so as to reduce hear buildup.

• Insulate ducts in crawl space and attic areas.

• Do not block air conditioning return and supply registers.

• Proper insulation levels will save you money.

• Install storm windows and storm doors.

• Have fireplace damper kept closed when not in use.

• In rooms not being used, turn heat off and keep doors closed.

• In wintertime, lower the thermostat several degrees when away for a day or more. Make sure not to turn the unit off, however.
• During the summer season, keep the house cooled as much as possible by closing shades and curtains.

• Dust on radiators, convectors, baseboard heating units, and in ducts acts as insulation and wastes heat. Vacuum regularly.

• Keep filters clean of lint and grime.

• Tune-up oil burner once a year.

• Change filters at least twice during the heating season to keep air flowing freely.

• Oil blower and motor with a regular 30 weight non-detergent motor oil from your local gasoline station.

• Clean chimneys and flue pipes annually and check for air leaks.

• Check and clean blower fans, drive belts, pulleys and make adjustments to operate more efficiently.

• Check piping, fittings, vents, valves, and radiators for leakage.

• Ductwork should be insulated and joints sealed with tape to prevent excessive heat loss.

• Have humidifier serviced seasonally.

• Make sure all refrigerant lines are insulated.

• Service air conditioning system annually.

• Make certain that air conditioning condenser unit is kept free of twigs, leaves, etc. and have the unit serviced annually.

• Make certain all refrigerant and electrical lines are always properly secured.

• Have humidifier cleaned and serviced every 6 months.

• Drain and refill boiler every 3 to 4 years.

• Make sure that humidifier is checked for possible leaks into the heating unit. This should prevent serious damage.

• Recommend a carbon monoxide alarm that is now available, similar to a smoke alarm.

• Noisy fan belts.

• Water leakage at housing.

• Rust on housing.

• Pilot light going out often.

• Burn marks on housing.

• Burnt wires.

• Deterioration of insulation.

• Wet walls and/or windows.

Interior

General house maintenance:

	PERIODICALLY	SPRING	FALL	ANNUALLY
Check bathroom tile joints, tub grouting & caulking. Be sure all tile joints in bathrooms are kept well sealed with tile grout to prevent damage to walls, floors and ceilings below.
To prevent freezing keep garage doors closed in winter, exposed water lines & drains should be wrapped with insulation.
Close crawl vents in winter and open in summer.
Check underside of roof, for water stains, leaks, dampness and condensation, particularly in attics and around chimneys.
Keep attic louvers & vents open all year round. Check louver screening.

• Add insulation wherever possible.

• Consider adding a recirculator to your fireplace that heats the air from the room.

• Caulk wall penetrations to keep heat in.

• Glass doors on a fireplace can keep heat from escaping up through the chimney.

• Whenever possible, shade out direct sunlight to eliminate fabric fading. This will also help to cut air-conditioning costs.

• Repair peeling plaster or wallboard wherever applicable.

• Check grouting and caulking in all tiled places.

• Check for wall damage cracks under windows.

• Make sure that all interior walls, ceilings and floors are kept properly finished or painted.

• Check all floors for excessive squeaks or slapping noises.

• Have all chimney flues cleaned yearly by a professional chimney sweep.

• Test fireplace damper to see whether it shuts and opens.

• Check periodically for loose bricks in the fireplace or chimney. Re-point any loose mortar joints.

• Smoke stains on the face of the mantel directly above the fireplace opening can indicate a poor draft, a badly designed flue or debris in the chimney.

• Avoid a sudden burst of flame in a cold fireplace; this will always blow smoke into a room.

• Sagging or bouncy floors may result from undersized floor joists, joists inadequately braced, or from damage to timbers.

• Rough, uneven or patched areas on ceilings that have been repainted suggest prior water leakage.

• Utilize heat from the oven vent to warm food on the cooktop.

• Start food on higher heat setting, then turn surface unit down to low or off to finish cooking.

• Select proper heat-setting for surface cooking.

• Use pots and pans that properly fit the elements on the stove top.

• Normal use of a trash compactor results in very little energy waste – only about 8 kilowatt hours a year.

• Load dishwasher correctly for top performance. Incorrect loading may cause unsatisfactory cleaning result and a waste of energy.

• Wait for an entire load of clothing or dishes before using appliance.

• Check refrigerators and freezers seals for tightness.

• If refrigerator or freezer is not frost free, defrost ice buildup regularly.

• Upon purchasing appliances, fill out and return all manufacturer’s warranties and file papers appropriately.

• If dishwasher will not start, check fuses and check to see if cycle control is on the proper setting.

• When compacting garbage with dry waste, open and close the unit two or three times to spray waste.

• A normal household 120-volt 15-amp grounded circuit is all that is needed to operate a trash compactor. It is also recommended that a delayed fuse be installed.

• Wipe range regularly when cool, using a soft cloth and warm soapy water. Do not allow food containing acids to remain on the range surface.

• Periodically check oven vents and door gaskets for problems.

• Start the self-cleaning cycle on your range while the oven is still warm from cooking.

• Do not attempt to move a pan containing quantities of hot fat until it has cooled.

• Do not touch oven light bulb when hot.

• Fasten loose hair and loose clothing when working with or near a stove.

• Never trash compact highly flammable materials.

• Never use the trash compactor as a counter for electrical appliances or as a cutting board.

Spring Homeowner Tips

Summer Homeowner Tips

Winter Homeowner Tips

Fireplace Safety: If constructed properly, fireplaces will perform safely and dependably. Fireplaces, just like anything else, wear over a period of years and need to be maintained to extend their life. Here are check lists to follow for safely installing, maintaining and operating a fireplace. Safe Installations Check to determine that the fireplace complies with all building codes in your community, including special requirements such as earthquake construction. Be sure the flue is of adequate size, equal to at least 1/ 1Oth the area of the fireplace opening for chimneys more than 15 feet tall and at least 1/ 8th the area of the fireplace opening for chimneys less than 15 feet. Extend the chimney at least 3 feet above the highest point where it passes through the roof and at least 2 feet higher than any portion of the building within 10 feet. If the roof is flat, the chimney should be at least 3 feet above the roof. Be sure the flue is tight, well built and well maintained, with a smooth interior. Each fireplace needs its own flue, but more than one flue may be located in the same chimney. Extend the hearth in front of the fireplace at least 18 inches into the room and at least 8 inches on either side of the fireplace opening. Use brick, stone, tile, concrete or other noncombustible, heat-resistant material at least 4 inches thick. Support the chimney and fireplace properly. Wall-hung chimneys and fireplaces are apt to put undue weight on walls and partitions, cause the floors to settle and cause masonry flues to crack. A masonry chimney should rest on its own foundation below the frost line. Install metal flashings to protect areas where the flue goes through the roof, and keep them in good repair. Install a metal spark arrester on top of the chimney to keep sparks from setting the house afire. Be sure prefabricated metal fireplaces and chimneys are approved by the Underwriters' Laboratories (UL) and installed as specified by the instructions. Freestanding fireplaces should be at least 3 feet from unprotected walls, drapes or other flammable materials. Use necessary wall protection to protect walls closer than 3 feet. Place a pad of brick or insulated fireproof material on the floor beneath the fireplace. Be sure that pipes connecting freestanding stoves and fireplaces to a chimney are at least No. 20 gauge steel, UL listed and installed in accordance with the listing. No pipe should be longer than 10 feet nor more than 75% of the vertical height of the chimney, whichever is less. For a modified fireplace (a firebox inserted into an existing fireplace), select one with a steel liner at least 1/4-inch thick to decrease the likelihood of it eventually rusting out. Install bird and animal guards on the chimney. Squirrel and bird nests can stop up chimneys. If you choose a natural gas "log," follow instructions for installation and use. Look for the American Gas Association label.

Maintenance for Safety: Keep the fireplace in good condition by repairing cracks in the flue lining, bricks and mortar. Keep the flue clear of soot, creosote and obstructions. Inspect the fireplace and chimney at least once a year to prevent creosote buildup.

Safe Operation: Equip the house with fire-warning devices. Install a type ABC fire extinguisher near the fireplace. Install a screen that completely covers the fireplace opening to keep sparks from flying out. Keep combustible materials such as carpets, furniture, paper, logs and kindling at least 3 feet away from the fireplace. Arrange andirons so logs can't roll out. Use only enough fuel to keep the fire at the desired temperature. Avoid "roaring" fires. They can start chimney fires from soot and creosote deposits in the flue. Do not use gasoline or other flammable liquids to kindle or rekindle a fire because the flammable vapors can explode. Never use fuels near a fire; explosive vapors can travel the length of a room. Keep the damper open while the fuel is burning to provide for efficient burning and to prevent accumulation of poisonous or explosive gases. Never burn Christmas tree greens. They cause many sparks when burning and can cause a chimney fire. Remove colored comic sections before rolling newspapers into logs. The colored inks contain lead and can produce toxic gases. Do not use coal, charcoal or polystyrene packaging in a fireplace unless the fireplace is designed to handle the excess heat and smoke which occurs when burning these materials. Do not treat artificial logs (made from sawdust and wax) the same way you treat real wood logs. Use only one at a time. If you use more, they can produce too much heat for some fireplaces to withstand. Keep children away from the fire because their clothing can easily ignite. Warn the entire family about this hazard. Be sure that all ashes have thoroughly cooled before you dispose of them. Put ashes in a lidded metal container to prevent a possible fire and provide a sturdy place to store them. Ashes make good fertilizer in gardens, flower beds, etc. Be sure the fire is out completely before retiring for the evening.

Safe Supply of Air: A fireplace fire requires about 5 times as much air as most houses need for liberal ventilation. With today's tightly-constructed houses incorporating weather-stripped doors, caulked windows and self-closing exhaust vents, a fireplace can set up reverse draft and suck poisonous carbon monoxide fumes from combustion-type (natural gas, etc.) water heaters or furnaces and discharge them into the living area. In tight homes, the fireplace may also consume enough oxygen from the air in the house to cause problems to occupants. To be safe, a positive source of outside air should be supplied to all fireplaces and wood-or-coal burning stoves to bring in enough fresh air for efficient burning. This can be provided by installing an outside air vent or opening a window when the fireplace or stove is being used. To keep smoke from entering the room, turn off kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans and close the registers of forced air heating systems which are near the fireplace.

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